Patterns for Baker Ball Hopper Monitor

[greentwin]

I am not sure where to put this, but "patterns" is probably a good place, since that is about where I am with the design.

I have built one steam engine, but really want to build an IC engine, and the Baker Ball Hopper Monitor seems to be an iconic design.

I had played around with some 3D modeling a few years ago, but restarted with all new models after I ran acround a guy named Barney on ytube who owns two 4-hp ball hopper monitors.

I was able to get Barney to take some measurements and photos of his engines, and then found some old factory information and additional photos on flockbook.

There apparently are very few photos of Baker ball hopper monitors anywhere, especially photos of disassembled 4 hp engines, which is the engine I am modeling.

It starts in Autocad 2D, and then goes into Solidworks.

I made a lot of progress on the 3D models for this engine over the last Thanksgiving holiday.

The next step is to start printing patterns on the new Prusa XL.

.

[greentwin]

At 1/2 scale, the flywheel will be 14 inches diameter.

Looking closely at the photos I have, I am trying to spot the parting lines on the original engines.
I think I know where the parting lines are.
Baker did a good job of hiding their parting lines.

Here is where I am with the 3D model.

.

[greentwin]

The first test print on the Prusa XL was a dog model that came with the printer.

I was impressed that this entire piece printed without supports.

.

r20230602_030410.jpg (167 KiB) Viewed 72 times

r20230602_164259.jpg (221.73 KiB) Viewed 72 times

r20230602_215007.jpg (242.03 KiB) Viewed 72 times

r20230602_232734.jpg (169.11 KiB) Viewed 72 times

[greentwin]

Next up was a flywheel model that someone sent me.

This also printed well, although it is a bit coarse in the curved parts.

.

R20230604_123341.jpg (211.85 KiB) Viewed 72 times

R20230604_134601.jpg (167.99 KiB) Viewed 72 times

[greentwin]

Here is a manifold that someone printed on an XL.

Again, most impressive that no supports are required.

.

DSC1249-copy-640x502.jpg (24.95 KiB) Viewed 72 times

[greentwin]

I tried filling the dog print with some auto body skim coat material, and that did not work well.

I tried sanding the print, and that typically just melted the plastic and left black streaks on the print.

Finally I tried using a fine sanding sponge in an angle drill, and on low speed, this actually works pretty well at smoothing the surface of a 3D print, even when the surface is quite rough.

The trick is to use firm pressure with a very low speed; perhaps 25 rpm.
It appears as if it is melting the tops of the ridges and moving that material over to the valleys where it gets deposited.

There is no dust or particles that come off of the sponge, and the sponge remains relatively clean.

I think the slow speed sanding sponge is the best way to smooth 3D prints.
It is fast, easy, and clean, with no waiting period for drying fillers, etc.

.

r40320.jpg (192.32 KiB) Viewed 71 times

r041408.jpg (248 KiB) Viewed 71 times

r041556.jpg (202.36 KiB) Viewed 71 times

[cae2100]

I posted something on here a while back I think of using card scrapers for woodworking for smoothing out 3d prints, which is alot faster than doing it with sanding really, and you get alot better finish too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4e9JJkinvk

Cool engine, since youve moved on from the O&S and have it sitting out in your driveway going towards the curb, when do you think it'll be a good time to stop by and pick it up?

[greentwin]

I need to pull the O-S off of its pallet, and remove the flywheel, so that I can skid it up into the shop.

I got the little monitor moved into the shop a few months ago.

I have some nice car ramps now, so that makes it easier to slide stuff.

I never even think about there being humidity down here.

I have heard of several folks who move down from the great white north, and they do mention "what the heck is with this dripping hot weather ?".

The main way I can tell the humidity is up is when I try to do a lot of outdoor work, I get overheated pretty quickly when not really doing that much physically.

.

[Jammer]

That was a shock to me. I thought great, I can work outside from March to November, nope... I could only work outside in March and November. The winter was rain and the first of April was 95 degrees and only got hotter. I have to admit Soule' in Mississippi was a little more unbearable.

[greentwin]

That's funny, I really don't notice the heat/humidity that much.
I am more sensitive to it these days doing yard work and such, which is why I pour at night.
Life down south would not be feasible without good air conditioning systems.
When I was growing up, we did not have AC at the house; everyone had a big fan in the hallway, and we opened the windows to let the air flow through.
No air in the car when I was young either.

I do have air in the shop, and that is a must.

The biggest problem with high humidity is if you work outside in it, your clothes are very soon soaking wet, and that is sort of a drag.
.