A new investment

All About Showing Off, This is why we do what we do.
Post Reply
Rasper
Posts: 628
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:05 pm
Location: Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Contact:

A new investment

Post by Rasper »

Today I invested the head of what may be the mummy of an ancient Warrior/King. I had cast him before, back when I was having serious gas problems—the ground up sea shells in the beach sand I was using produced copious amounts of carbon dioxide when hit by the molten bronze. You can see all of the gas holes here, as well as the frozen splashes on the rim of the pouring cup from the gas erupting:

Image

I used a bottom feed this time. Here it is almost ready. I poured the core yesterday and set some 3/8 inch re-bar in the core to hold it in place without chaplets.

Image

And after the pour.

Image

What a mess. For some reason plaster sets up much faster when mixed with sand or brick dust so it's elbows and assholes when you're pouring a big investment. Each bucket of the mixture has to be poured onto still liquid mix in the flask, or it won't be one solid unit.

Image

The investment material is made from plaster, brick dust, and ludo (ground up old investment). I will let the investment cure overnight and begin a five day burn out at between 700 to 800 degrees F. tomorrow.

Richard
F.C.
Posts: 560
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:28 am

Re: A new investment

Post by F.C. »

Too late to chime in on the investment, here, but consider this next time you invest something with a core:
Use skinny stainless steel finishing nails and penetrate your hollow wax at high smooth areas that are easy to finish later once it's cast in bronze. Leave half the nail inside the hollow area of your wax and half protruding outside the wax (like a pin cushion with a bunch of pins sticking out of it). Invest the core first. Invest the outter shell last. Once it's invested the outter shell will secure the pin heads, the inner investment (within the core) will secure the nail tips inside. Once the wax is melted out your plaster investment core is suspended nicely at multiple points and will resist any bump or jar that may cause the core to shift when moving the mold about.

Also, before you invest with the plaster, make small round BB's of wax and adhere one to each of those nail penetrations (from the outside) securing it to the finish surface of the wax. Once you've cast it in bronze you can take a pair of pliers and pull out the nails very easily which will leave the hole and a BB of bronze you can maul over and hammer near flush with the cast surface. From here you can use a TIG welder and liquify those spots and weld them to the base metal leaving a small blemish to chase and detail afterward (which is why you'd do this on areas intended to be smooth as opposed to an area where there is a lot of necessary detail). This way ALL your core pin penetrations will be welded with the exact metal the cast is made with and they will patina perfectly without showing any sign of difference in color with the rest of the piece. Or... if you don't have a TIG welder you can simply hammer the BB's over into their adjoining hole taking care to do this slowly and make the hammered fit flawless. This is how statuary was done back in the ancient times, all welding was hand hammered fit, no actual welding at all.

Also, as an added security for potential mold cracks during burn out, slide in a sleeve of chicken wire within your investment mold. Believe me... the day (if it hasn't already) will come when you go to rotate a mold fresh from the kiln to the cast area and it'll break in half from a hairline crack you didn't see. Or, during your pour the mold will break and piss bronze all over the floor. What I do is "always" include the chicken wire, then when the mold is inverted and ready to pour I slide a bigger sleeve around it and pour in dry sand to surround the plaster mold in case a pisser opens up when the melt is added which isn't all that uncommon to happen.

As for overnight curing:

You're too impatient ;) . I, personally, allow my investments to cure no less than 3 full days. The inner part of the investment takes longer to cure than the outter part of the shell that's exposed to the air. The dryer outer shell will wick out moisture from the inner thicker areas of the mold. Having a wetter inner shell will contribute to the vapor lock effect we talked about earlier during burnout. And as for a five day burnout, that seems excessive for a mold that size. The proper burn should run at the lower heat ranges longer so to drive moisture out rather than cause the vapor lock keeping it trapped inside. The scenario of time event I mentioned to you before would work nicely with that mold and save you some money in gas. Just offering some suggestions here is all. A five day burn may work ok but it may also cause fractures to develop in your investment. As with anything, too little or too much heat can have detrimental effect to what you're intending to happen.
Rasper
Posts: 628
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:05 pm
Location: Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Contact:

Re: A new investment

Post by Rasper »

I love your idea about the little BB's by the core pins. So far I have not had to use core pins as all of my casts have had at least two large openings to the core which act as core prints, which I usually reinforce with some re-bar.

I have not had success with short burn outs. Those 9 inch diameter 12 inch tall investments I was using in those tests several weeks ago needed 48 hours to burn clean.

Another thing I have begun using is distilled water for the brush on coats of investment. The water here has a lot of minerals and I suspect some of them react with the hot metal and produce some of those surface defects. Distilled water is not available here so I have to make it.

You mentioned in a previous post that my burn out kiln could be improved. I am not overly concerned about the expense of the propane as it is cheaper here than in the US, and I only burn out an investment about once a month. I am interested in the effectiveness of the burn out though. I run the burner with an oxidizing flame and have a vent hole in the top of the kiln. There is plenty of space around the burner for air to enter the kiln. How much air flow is needed? I know some kiln designs call for a stack to draw air through the kiln but that seems excessive and would waste a ton of heat.

Richard
Rasper
Posts: 628
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:05 pm
Location: Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Contact:

Re: A new investment

Post by Rasper »

I poured him on Friday. I didn't follow my plan and paid the price. I burned it out for four days instead of the planned five. There was still some wax residue and I got gas. Fortunately all of the gas holes (inside the ellipse) are in an area where, given the nature of the piece, they seem to contribute something. So I lucked out. The rest of the casting is almost perfect. There is none of the surface pitting I have been experiencing recently. F.C. has been a big help to me in getting these problems ironed out.

Image

Here he is cleaned up:

Image

Image

Image

Richard
Rasper
Posts: 628
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:05 pm
Location: Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Contact:

Re: A new investment

Post by Rasper »

I finished him today:

Image

Image

Richard
F.C.
Posts: 560
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:28 am

Re: A new investment

Post by F.C. »

Have you thought of doing a light verde patina on those lighter, gray, portions? Looks fine to me otherwise. You did good.... ;)
MemphisChild

Re: A new investment

Post by MemphisChild »

These are really too cool pictures of art, I have ever seen before......... :)

Click Here
Post Reply