OK... I'm officially bored. Gotta do something creative

[F.C.]

Yeah, Jammer... that's the same stuff. But, it's sprue wax and not necessarily used for carving. Indeed, you can carve it but once you get down to some intricate details it becomes a pain in the arse to accomplish any finite detail. For the purposes you're intending (re: that foundry buckle) that wax will work just fine. Rub down the finished pattern with powdered graphite and it'll hold up and release nicely from any sand mix. I made this point cover for a friend of mine's Harley motor using that wax as the original and sand pattern for duplication.

[mite5255]

it's sprue wax

What actually is sprue wax Frank as in composition of the wax, also would you uselessly use some other type of wax for modeling. I have machinable wax here that I made myself using paraffin wax and polypropylene, would that be any good for carving

Mike

[Jammer]

I think that would depend on how much Polypropylene you put in. I made some and it is very hard, I kept adding PP until it wouldn't take any more. It also curled up real bad as it cooled. I never tried to do anything with it. I was going to heat it and weight it down to get a flat sheet. I made some good molding wax with beeswax and some mineral oil or Vaseline, I can't remember which one worked out. I need to write stuff down. It works really well but sure shows the fingerprints.

[F.C.]

Sprue wax is soft and pliable, Mike, ... yet stiff enough to withstand some abrupt contact. I do not know what the exact composition is, I assume it's a harder version of the standard brown microcrystalline modeling wax only with vasaline rather than beeswax (which is pretty sticky stuff). You can take a length of sprue wax rod and literally tie it in a knot. Comes in handy for routing sprues in lost wax castings that require odd positions and routing to achieve the necessary gate and/or vent.

I generally make my own wax which is a combination of microcrystalline modeling wax and sufficient quantity of candle wax, with enough old black used crankcase oil to make the wax black. Too much oil and the wax is difficult to stick to itself when doing modeling. Too much microcrystalline and oil the wax will be too gooey and sticky. Get the proportions right with all three and you have a great wax that will model well and produce a pattern that will withstand ramming in sand (rubbed with graphite, too, of course).

The ideal wax for carving intricate details into is a machine able wax. There is a blue wax you can order online that works perfect for carving. I don't recall the name of it but if you google the words... Blue Wax Jewelry it'll populate a nice list of sources for ya. Myself, I tend to do things on the fly with whatever's available and within reach. I have better wax for carving but it's packed away at present. The sprue wax was convenient as well the brown microcrystalline wax I recently used. Those boxes were right on top and easily accessible.

[F.C.]

Well... now that chores are done around this place, and I've been forced into having to take it easy 'cause of damage I did to elbow tendons (from the sheer volume of heavy physical labor I did over such a short period of time without rest), decided to resurrect these rings and get them nudged closer to completion.

Don't have my foundry up and running yet but do have my welding equipment sparked and ready to go, including torches, tools put back in place and ready for action, etc. As for casting those rings, a friend of mine here (who's a jewler by trade) saw the waxes I made and volunteered to cast them for me. All I had to do was sprue them up, invest them, provide the metal, and he would do the casting in his centrifuge. All I'd need to do is de-gate, finish detailing, etc., and if sizing is necessary he'd do that as well. He's got a large piece he's worked on himself (a sculpture) he'll be wanting cast when he's ready. No rush. But yeah, I told him as soon as my foundry is up and ready to bring it over and I'd happily do for him what he's done for me.

Just called me a bit ago and said he's on his way over with the cast rings and is going to provide me with some loner micro-detail files to use to finish up the pieces. Ain't FRIENDS WONDERFUL!!! I'll post some pics of 'em later this afternoon.

[F.C.]

Amazing how much imperfections get noticed in the metal stage that wasn't evident in the waxes. All in all, I'm well pleased with these. They're just a pinch tight on the finger but expected that way seeing as how I'll be finishing and removing a micro thin layer off the finishes which eventually will end up being the perfect fit.

[F.C.]

May as well show ya all the views...

[F.C.]

Here's a few more...

[F.C.]

Here's one of them semi finished. There's about (at least) two silver dollars invested into this cast (Kennedy silver dollars from back in '64. They were at least 96.4% pure silver. It's much heavier than I expected the ring to be but not too bad.. I could get used to it no problem. Fits well on the hand, too.

I feel much better now that I've actually created something again, and not just being something constructed, fixed, or invented just to help accomplish more work with greater ease, or restore what others beat to shit of mine over the past 6 years.

[F.C.]

Like I said, it's not finished yet. Still needs fine detailing with the dremmel and micro chisles and files. That's what I get for using the wrong wax on the original. Should'a used that blue wax (or green wax) which is workable with a file, etc., and can capture an abundance of details that'll reduce have'n to add 'em to the metal cast afterward. Oh well....... it was fun!