My mill

[dallen]

Morning Mite;
The differance is the way the tooling is shaped, Morse Taper has a long taper to it that locks along the entire length of the taper, R8 has a very short taper of only about an inch and has to have the drawbar to hold it into the spindle, some R8 spindles as on a bridgeport mill and many of the bridgeport clone type mills will have a pin in the spindle that will engage a groove or keyway on the tool so that all it really takes to hold tooling in an R8 spindle is a good snug hand tightening of the drawbar,

The R8 spindle also makes it easier when upsizing the mill in the futher as all R8 tools have the same size spindle. I have an adapter that will allow me to use Morse Taper tooling in my R8 Spindle, the mill that I have is similar in style to the Rong Fu 45 mills that are chinese Knock off that just about all the places here in the US that sell tools are selling under their name such as ENCO Jet just to name a few.

From the Picture it looks like you got yourself a pretty good mill, nice thing about the Belt Driven mills is that they will actually run faster then the gear head one like mine. you will have to make you a belt tensioner tool for taking up the slack. If you have no idea of what it is I will dig up a drawing of one, its a handy little piece of iron to have around a belt driven mill.

David

[mite5255]

Morning Mite;
The differance is the way the tooling is shaped, Morse Taper has a long taper to it that locks along the entire length of the taper, R8 has a very short taper of only about an inch and has to have the drawbar to hold it into the spindle, some R8 spindles as on a bridgeport mill and many of the bridgeport clone type mills will have a pin in the spindle that will engage a groove or keyway on the tool so that all it really takes to hold tooling in an R8 spindle is a good snug hand tightening of the drawbar,

The R8 spindle also makes it easier when upsizing the mill in the futher as all R8 tools have the same size spindle. I have an adapter that will allow me to use Morse Taper tooling in my R8 Spindle, the mill that I have is similar in style to the Rong Fu 45 mills that are chinese Knock off that just about all the places here in the US that sell tools are selling under their name such as ENCO Jet just to name a few.

From the Picture it looks like you got yourself a pretty good mill, nice thing about the Belt Driven mills is that they will actually run faster then the gear head one like mine. you will have to make you a belt tensioner tool for taking up the slack. If you have no idea of what it is I will dig up a drawing of one, its a handy little piece of iron to have around a belt driven mill.

David

Thanks for the explation David, mine has a morse spindle
The cutter thats below came with the mill but it has no spindle,what sort of spindle would it need, could I get a morse spindle to suit

Mike

cutter.jpg (31.37 KiB) Viewed 3775 times

S4010052.JPG (93.33 KiB) Viewed 3775 times

[dallen]

it is whats called a face mill cutter, and yes you can get an arbor to fit it, if you start looking in catalogs or online tooling houses, there are two measurements you will need the hole diameter and the slot width, or you can get some one that has a lathe to make one for you by turning a shank that will fit in one of the morse taper collets and fit the center hole with a flange on it then drill and tap the cutter end for say a 10 mm bolt, then you can take and cut two slots deep enough to insert two pieces of square stock that will just slide into the slot on the cutter and secure them to the shank with a couple cap screws. get those two measurements and we'll see what can be done, that hole looks like about 1 1/4" to me
That cutter will clean off a very wide path in one pass, does it have carbide inserts?

[mite5255]

it is whats called a face mill cutter, and yes you can get an arbor to fit it, if you start looking in catalogs or online tooling houses, there are two measurements you will need the hole diameter and the slot width, or you can get some one that has a lathe to make one for you by turning a shank that will fit in one of the morse taper collets and fit the center hole with a flange on it then drill and tap the cutter end for say a 10 mm bolt, then you can take and cut two slots deep enough to insert two pieces of square stock that will just slide into the slot on the cutter and secure them to the shank with a couple cap screws. get those two measurements and we'll see what can be done, that hole looks like about 1 1/4" to me
That cutter will clean off a very wide path in one pass, does it have carbide inserts?

The hole is 25mmand the slot is 10mm, I'll take it all to work on Friday and get our shift maintenance fitter to knock something up for me, he will also be giving me some coaching mo on how to operate the mill

Mike

[dallen]

that will work, make sure you get him to show you how align the head to the table otherwise you will be cutting all out of whack. you'll need a decent dial indicator for doing that with, I find a brand new brake rotor to be pretty handy as a flat surface to use for tramming the head. or if you can get your fitter to may be run a piece of flat bar thru s surface grinder if they have one flatten both sides you can use that to do it with, lots of people just use the table But I like something on it so I'm not likely to hang the indicator in the table slots. what ever you use be sure to take good care of it, if its a rotor keep it in the box it came in, if the fitter fixes you a bar keep it lighly oiled with some lilght machine oil and wrapped in alumium foil, that stuffs also good for keeping your cutters in after you loose the plastic tubes they come, or after you have them resharpened, keeps from banging around in the tool box.

You get any other tooling with the mill, you will also need a drill chuck, and some collets to hold differant sizes, I would get regular endmill cutters in a couple of sizes whats pretty much the hobby standard here is 3/8 and 1/2 inch shanks for most of the hobby machine work.

enjoy your mill, now you have something to make those castings into chips so you can melt em back down

David

[mite5255]

that will work, make sure you get him to show you how align the head to the table otherwise you will be cutting all out of whack. you'll need a decent dial indicator for doing that with, I find a brand new brake rotor to be pretty handy as a flat surface to use for tramming the head. or if you can get your fitter to may be run a piece of flat bar thru s surface grinder if they have one flatten both sides you can use that to do it with, lots of people just use the table But I like something on it so I'm not likely to hang the indicator in the table slots. what ever you use be sure to take good care of it, if its a rotor keep it in the box it came in, if the fitter fixes you a bar keep it lighly oiled with some lilght machine oil and wrapped in alumium foil, that stuffs also good for keeping your cutters in after you loose the plastic tubes they come, or after you have them resharpened, keeps from banging around in the tool box.

You get any other tooling with the mill, you will also need a drill chuck, and some collets to hold differant sizes, I would get regular endmill cutters in a couple of sizes whats pretty much the hobby standard here is 3/8 and 1/2 inch shanks for most of the hobby machine work.

enjoy your mill, now you have something to make those castings into chips so you can melt em back down

David

Thanks for the info david, no I did't get any other tooling, other then a drill chuck , fitter mate is going to give me a few end mills tho . I'm looking forward to making that first pile of shavings

[dallen]

be nice if you could get or make a collet chuck do you wouldn't have to be swaping those morse tapers all the time, half turn on the collet nut and its loose enough to swap the end mill that you have in it, and if you get your cutters with reduced shanks on them that fixes it so you don't have to swap the collets very often, a drill chuck with a stright shank on it.

You get a chance have that fitter get you a real stirght piece of drill rod or some kinda of tool steel, about say a foot long or a extra long drill bit. chuck it up in your drill chuck and see if the heads in alignment with the table, that drill mill should have a Morse Taper 3 SPindle so you could use a say 25 mm drill to check it with put the bit in the spindle and then use a good square to see if the heads cocked over to one side.

Have Fun I got to go kill some weeds with the weedeater.

David

[mite5255]

be nice if you could get or make a collet chuck do you wouldn't have to be swaping those morse tapers all the time, half turn on the collet nut and its loose enough to swap the end mill that you have in it, and if you get your cutters with reduced shanks on them that fixes it so you don't have to swap the collets very often, a drill chuck with a stright shank on it.

You get a chance have that fitter get you a real stirght piece of drill rod or some kinda of tool steel, about say a foot long or a extra long drill bit. chuck it up in your drill chuck and see if the heads in alignment with the table, that drill mill should have a Morse Taper 3 SPindle so you could use a say 25 mm drill to check it with put the bit in the spindle and then use a good square to see if the heads cocked over to one side.

Have Fun I got to go kill some weeds with the weedeater.

David

I very much appreciate the information that you have been given me David, thank you, thank you

Have fun with the weed eater mate

Mike

[dallen]

thats ok Mike just glad I could be of help, now back to killing weeds the inhumane way with a kevlar string traveling at 25000 RPM.

[mite5255]

thats ok Mike just glad I could be of help, now back to killing weeds the inhumane way with a kevlar strink traveling at 25000 RPM.

I can here the painful crys from here