No corrugated sheathing, just 1/2" marine plywood and 3/32" galvanized 1"x1" steel that has holes spaced 1" apart at equal distance all along the angle's length. It's pretty cheap, lightweight, but strong when combined with a rolled arch and in unision with other dimensional sheathing that's been arched as well. Like an egg shell's physical dynamics. The angles need to be rolled to a specific curve which you can have done at most pipe bender services, or if you're creative you can devise your own cheaply made roller to accommodate this task. The plywood sheathing needs use of a circular saw to cut several grooves (aproximately 5/16" deep), laterally along the 4ft width. Calculate the circumference you need on the inside curve, deduct that length from the 8ft outter length, the sum will be what you'll need to devide and apply (per sawcut width) equally spaced over the entire 8ft length. When the cuts have been equally spaced and made, you'll notice how flexible your sheet of plywood will be. It will only flex to a point where the saw cuts pinch together and close.
In preparation of bending these sheets you'll also need to make yourself a cheap jig out of some scrap lumber (which you can disassemble and use for flask forms later, so nothing's wasted). When you're ready to bend a sheet, mop a lot of boiling hot water onto the uncut face of the plywood. Give it some time to soak in. Don't saturate the sheet, you want the cut side to remain dry. Once the uncut face is properly made semi plyable, flip the sheet and paint a thin layer of Elmer's carpenter's glue into all the cut grooves. Then place the sheet onto your jig with the uncut side up. Clamp the ends, and any other section of the sheet to the jig that's not resting flush to your form. Allow to dry. Then do the next sheet. Stage them on edge till you're ready to apply them to the structure's framework.
Once the angles are bent to proper degree of arch you can assemble each rib which will constitute two angles joined together to form an inverted "T". You can either weld them or rivet. If you rivet you'll have to drill those pre-holes first to the diameter of your rivet, one every open space where there is no pre-existing manufactured hole. Do this until you have sufficient number of ribs to span the length of your quonset. The end ribs will be just one single arched angle, turned with the flange pointed inward, not outward.
Now, create the foundation out of 2x6 treated lumber. They will rest on edge to the ground, the protruding ends of your ribs (at least, 2 inches beyond where your sheathing begins and ends) will be what you'll use to anchor your ribs to the foundation framework. Use pieces cut from your angle stock to form the anchor ties your ribs will bold up to. Space each rib equal distance apart (4ft) to accept the 4x8 sheet of plywood.
Now, lay in your arched plywood sheats, drill through the angle holes and through the sheet of plywood to accept small carriage bolts. Slip in a bolt, apply nut and washer from the inside and tighten. Go to the next, or every three or four holes spacing, and do the same. You'll have that first set of ribs sheathed in no time. Then do the same to the next set of ribs. The end angles (your gable ends of the structure) will have lateral flanges you can attach your upright walls to. Frame for a door and window ventilation and there ya have it... a perfect arched elongated structure with a dirt floor. Or, you can cast a slab of concrete "on top" of a leveled patch of ground with cast in eye bolts at each end of the slab so you can hook to it and drag it whereever to prove it's a mobile, temporary, shelter for your toys. Or, leave it with a dirt floor, your choice. Then dig yourself a trench from your exterior outlet off your house and route a heavy duty electric chord through PVC underground to your shelter so you'll have power.
Lighting is easy to wire in, as well, for lighting and wall outlets.
Interested???
