New Garage Thread.
New Garage Thread.
Well after some checking, I'll have to downsize my garage plans a little. A couple estimates came in very high..?? I want a garage Not a house. Probably go more for a pole building, they cost less and use metal roof and siding. I plan to ventilate it well to make it bearable when summer heat comes around. I have a couple fairly large trees that need removed, one I can drop, but the other I may need help. All my stuff in storage is driving me nuts. What ever I need is in the locker... 
Re: New Garage Thread.
I've built two huge shops myself, I know what you're going through. May I make some suggestions? What am I saying... I'mm gonna anyway, so here goes.
Go for the most square footage you can. Not only does it give you "more" than what you need (at the onset, at least) you'll always grow into it. It'll also add value to your property. Do it to code! Don't fall short and slap up a pole building that will only fall short of reliability, functionality, durability in all climate conditions, and equity value.
That said, keep this in mind, too... you can be your own general contractor and negotiate every aspect of your construction build yourself. Begin dreaming big (always). Draw yourself out the site plan layout of where the structure will sit on the property. Walk it time and time again to ensure it's the "ideal" location. Once that's settled, rent yourself a bobcat (150 bucks for two days/weekend effort), pick it up on a friday evening, drop it off sunday evening. DONE. Clear your site, define your drive approach. Level by backscraping with the blade. Once that's done lay out and square off your structure dimensions beginning with the corners using wooden stakes and stringline. Plant additional stakes at multiple sections along your side lines between corners. You can level the field using any type of tripod, camera tripod, music sheet stand, etc. Tape a cheap scope on the top in a way where it will pivot 90 degrees and keep the crosshair level. From there have your wife hold a length of stick or 2x4 on end with a well visible tape measure, or incremental marks you've drawn on it so it works as a ruler. Make yourself a sketch of the foot print and section the sketch like a checker board. Then have your assistant move to the middle of each 3' square you have and set the 2x end down and YOU viewing through the scope can see the measurement your crosshair is at on the board. Write down each measurement as she positions herself at each 3' square location. From there you can use that sketch to determine where to determind the mean average "middle" height you need to readjust the surface dirt to level your foundation pad site. You can do this by shovel full at a time. Once level to your satisfaction (remember, it doesn't have to be perfect, just close enough for pour'n a concrete pad which will ultimately level itself as it's worked into the form).
Here's the fun part. Now, measure an 18 inch inner offset line of the perimeter you laid out. Then dig that inner offset perimeter down to about 2 ft. Don 't go outside your exterior perimeter line. Once that dirt is removed, take 2x6 lumber and build yourself a frame to encompass the perimeter string line. Attach your framework to each stake you've placed around the perimeter with screws. Check periodically that your framework is level. Get it as close as possible to perfect as you can. Once the framework is level, complete and secure, this is when you become your own general contractor.
Get on the phone and call a couple to three concrete companies. Don't speak with the employees, speak with the owner. Tell him what it is you're wanting to do. Ensure he understands you are not a commercial entity, just some old fart try'n to build himself a man-cave to keep from going insane. He'll understand. Ask what his cost is to deliver 'crete to your property. He'll give you a better price than most who ask. Then ask him how much it would be if the governor doesn't know about it. From here he will ask you more questions and chat you up more about what it is you're doing with it. He's feel'n you out to see if you're gonna squeel on him. Insist this is all purely out of your pocket with limited income. He may tell you he'll get back with you on his answer. What that means is that he'll check his schedules to see where he's got crete headed in locations near where you live. All concrete projects have overages they deliver to site so's not to fall short when filling forms. When he calls you back he'll ask when it is you'll be ready for the mud. Commit to a date. He'll then give you a most sweet offer that'll astound people if they heard about it. Vow to keep it a secret or you'll end up screw'n yourself for other services in the community if the secret leaks out. What he'll do is not send one truck but there will be multiple trucks arrive on that date with overages they'd otherwise have to pour into a hole and bury... anywhere from 3 to five yards of crete at a time. He will schedule his deliveries at all locations to account for set up time between your multiple pours so you'll have time to work it and not cause yourself any problems, plus give you and your novice crew time to fuck around with it between each delivery. Have your crew of young teens handy, motivated, and preped with what to do when the truck arrives. Then be ready and wait. It might take a good portion of a work day but it'll be done and over with and the cost will run remarkably small in comparison to what you'd normally have to pay. I did a 30x50 6 inch slab with 2ft thickened edge for 4,000 which included my lumber, the bobcat rental, rebar, tie wire, sill anchor bolts, pay for the teenagers, one experienced concrete worker's time (mostly in beer and bbq), the crete and delivery cost, plus finishing the crete to a smooth sweet finish (it looked polished!). And while ea. truck was pulling out, and the crew was getting each load level to the form sides I placed the sill bolts in place precisely in the middle where my wall sill plate would end up sitting. It went smooth as silk, i swear. That foundation, otherwise, at best cost paying to have it done from scratch would have cost 15,000.
Once the slab is finished you can then take your lumber and stage it onto the flat surface and begin to fabricate your own walls. I did this in 8 ft. wall sections. Each were framed, sheathed, and hole cut for wiring. Doorways framed, windows framed, all headers in place, etc. When I had a whole side wall ready and staged I drilled my sill plates and put them in place and bolted each down, ensuring no bolts or nuts protruded above the sill. Then I had the wife help me tilt each 8 ft wall section up and onto the sill plate where I toenailed each into place. The next wall section went up the same way, also toenailing that onto the side of the previous one up. After two wall sections are tacked, I took scrap boards and used them as props to steady and plumb the wall sections upright. Continue this way all around the slab and in very short order your entire shop wall will be completed save for the trusses and roofing.
Now, remember the lesson on getting crete for cheap. You can do very similar with the lumber package and truss package, as well. If you know of anybody who's a good friend, co-worker, or good acquaintence who builds homes for a living you may be able to get them to call in an order for your shop and they will tell the yard they'll be sending out a new guy to pick up the load and that you will be paying for it. They do this all the time for friends, by the way, who are building small shops and garages or additions onto their own homes. The discount they will give is phenominal compared to what a small contractor would get doing renovation projects. What I'm saying here is... from concept to completion, ALL costs combined, starting with the rental of teh bobcat, to final paint and wiring by a local electrician ata sweet cost of 450 bucks, btw... total price for all was 25K... for a 30x50 shop, 13 ft eaves, full 6" thickened edge polished slab foundation, 50 ft lb snowload roof, wiring, outlets, switches and bulbs, including two man doors. I built twin double wide barn doors out of wood left over that I hung. That shop otherwise... by multiple contractor quotes, was least priced at 68K (for a pole building), to as high as 87K for a stick framed structure like what I built. Any bank or credit union will give a signature loan up to 27K (or higher) depending on one's credit rating. I did the 27K loan. Once the shop was built I refinanced my property to a newer value and pocketed about 30K into our savings account. My original home loan was for 156K... the new value of the property went to 187. Realestate market value on the property is now at 250K. Just a little sweat, creative thinking, and ferreting out resources and organizing people and friends time, make'n new friends, etc., I pumped up the equity in my home big time and gave myself a man's dream shop to grow into.
You, my friend, can do even better considering your smaller footprint you desire of your perfect shop.
Just say'n... dream big... go big, or at least as big as possible within the research of resources you have available. I took pictures of each and every step of construction so's to share with others who might wander down this trail. Ended up moving and building another home, also out of negotiation techniques described above. I now own a home I got loan to build at 232K. It's value, with the add on 30x40 shop I built precisely as described above, puts my home value now at 300K. I took pics of this home's construction, and my shop's construction at each step of development as well. I'm here for ya to advise if you have a mind to listen.
Best of luck to you, Jammer. All good things come to those who wait and persevere.
Go for the most square footage you can. Not only does it give you "more" than what you need (at the onset, at least) you'll always grow into it. It'll also add value to your property. Do it to code! Don't fall short and slap up a pole building that will only fall short of reliability, functionality, durability in all climate conditions, and equity value.
That said, keep this in mind, too... you can be your own general contractor and negotiate every aspect of your construction build yourself. Begin dreaming big (always). Draw yourself out the site plan layout of where the structure will sit on the property. Walk it time and time again to ensure it's the "ideal" location. Once that's settled, rent yourself a bobcat (150 bucks for two days/weekend effort), pick it up on a friday evening, drop it off sunday evening. DONE. Clear your site, define your drive approach. Level by backscraping with the blade. Once that's done lay out and square off your structure dimensions beginning with the corners using wooden stakes and stringline. Plant additional stakes at multiple sections along your side lines between corners. You can level the field using any type of tripod, camera tripod, music sheet stand, etc. Tape a cheap scope on the top in a way where it will pivot 90 degrees and keep the crosshair level. From there have your wife hold a length of stick or 2x4 on end with a well visible tape measure, or incremental marks you've drawn on it so it works as a ruler. Make yourself a sketch of the foot print and section the sketch like a checker board. Then have your assistant move to the middle of each 3' square you have and set the 2x end down and YOU viewing through the scope can see the measurement your crosshair is at on the board. Write down each measurement as she positions herself at each 3' square location. From there you can use that sketch to determine where to determind the mean average "middle" height you need to readjust the surface dirt to level your foundation pad site. You can do this by shovel full at a time. Once level to your satisfaction (remember, it doesn't have to be perfect, just close enough for pour'n a concrete pad which will ultimately level itself as it's worked into the form).
Here's the fun part. Now, measure an 18 inch inner offset line of the perimeter you laid out. Then dig that inner offset perimeter down to about 2 ft. Don 't go outside your exterior perimeter line. Once that dirt is removed, take 2x6 lumber and build yourself a frame to encompass the perimeter string line. Attach your framework to each stake you've placed around the perimeter with screws. Check periodically that your framework is level. Get it as close as possible to perfect as you can. Once the framework is level, complete and secure, this is when you become your own general contractor.
Get on the phone and call a couple to three concrete companies. Don't speak with the employees, speak with the owner. Tell him what it is you're wanting to do. Ensure he understands you are not a commercial entity, just some old fart try'n to build himself a man-cave to keep from going insane. He'll understand. Ask what his cost is to deliver 'crete to your property. He'll give you a better price than most who ask. Then ask him how much it would be if the governor doesn't know about it. From here he will ask you more questions and chat you up more about what it is you're doing with it. He's feel'n you out to see if you're gonna squeel on him. Insist this is all purely out of your pocket with limited income. He may tell you he'll get back with you on his answer. What that means is that he'll check his schedules to see where he's got crete headed in locations near where you live. All concrete projects have overages they deliver to site so's not to fall short when filling forms. When he calls you back he'll ask when it is you'll be ready for the mud. Commit to a date. He'll then give you a most sweet offer that'll astound people if they heard about it. Vow to keep it a secret or you'll end up screw'n yourself for other services in the community if the secret leaks out. What he'll do is not send one truck but there will be multiple trucks arrive on that date with overages they'd otherwise have to pour into a hole and bury... anywhere from 3 to five yards of crete at a time. He will schedule his deliveries at all locations to account for set up time between your multiple pours so you'll have time to work it and not cause yourself any problems, plus give you and your novice crew time to fuck around with it between each delivery. Have your crew of young teens handy, motivated, and preped with what to do when the truck arrives. Then be ready and wait. It might take a good portion of a work day but it'll be done and over with and the cost will run remarkably small in comparison to what you'd normally have to pay. I did a 30x50 6 inch slab with 2ft thickened edge for 4,000 which included my lumber, the bobcat rental, rebar, tie wire, sill anchor bolts, pay for the teenagers, one experienced concrete worker's time (mostly in beer and bbq), the crete and delivery cost, plus finishing the crete to a smooth sweet finish (it looked polished!). And while ea. truck was pulling out, and the crew was getting each load level to the form sides I placed the sill bolts in place precisely in the middle where my wall sill plate would end up sitting. It went smooth as silk, i swear. That foundation, otherwise, at best cost paying to have it done from scratch would have cost 15,000.
Once the slab is finished you can then take your lumber and stage it onto the flat surface and begin to fabricate your own walls. I did this in 8 ft. wall sections. Each were framed, sheathed, and hole cut for wiring. Doorways framed, windows framed, all headers in place, etc. When I had a whole side wall ready and staged I drilled my sill plates and put them in place and bolted each down, ensuring no bolts or nuts protruded above the sill. Then I had the wife help me tilt each 8 ft wall section up and onto the sill plate where I toenailed each into place. The next wall section went up the same way, also toenailing that onto the side of the previous one up. After two wall sections are tacked, I took scrap boards and used them as props to steady and plumb the wall sections upright. Continue this way all around the slab and in very short order your entire shop wall will be completed save for the trusses and roofing.
Now, remember the lesson on getting crete for cheap. You can do very similar with the lumber package and truss package, as well. If you know of anybody who's a good friend, co-worker, or good acquaintence who builds homes for a living you may be able to get them to call in an order for your shop and they will tell the yard they'll be sending out a new guy to pick up the load and that you will be paying for it. They do this all the time for friends, by the way, who are building small shops and garages or additions onto their own homes. The discount they will give is phenominal compared to what a small contractor would get doing renovation projects. What I'm saying here is... from concept to completion, ALL costs combined, starting with the rental of teh bobcat, to final paint and wiring by a local electrician ata sweet cost of 450 bucks, btw... total price for all was 25K... for a 30x50 shop, 13 ft eaves, full 6" thickened edge polished slab foundation, 50 ft lb snowload roof, wiring, outlets, switches and bulbs, including two man doors. I built twin double wide barn doors out of wood left over that I hung. That shop otherwise... by multiple contractor quotes, was least priced at 68K (for a pole building), to as high as 87K for a stick framed structure like what I built. Any bank or credit union will give a signature loan up to 27K (or higher) depending on one's credit rating. I did the 27K loan. Once the shop was built I refinanced my property to a newer value and pocketed about 30K into our savings account. My original home loan was for 156K... the new value of the property went to 187. Realestate market value on the property is now at 250K. Just a little sweat, creative thinking, and ferreting out resources and organizing people and friends time, make'n new friends, etc., I pumped up the equity in my home big time and gave myself a man's dream shop to grow into.
You, my friend, can do even better considering your smaller footprint you desire of your perfect shop.
Just say'n... dream big... go big, or at least as big as possible within the research of resources you have available. I took pictures of each and every step of construction so's to share with others who might wander down this trail. Ended up moving and building another home, also out of negotiation techniques described above. I now own a home I got loan to build at 232K. It's value, with the add on 30x40 shop I built precisely as described above, puts my home value now at 300K. I took pics of this home's construction, and my shop's construction at each step of development as well. I'm here for ya to advise if you have a mind to listen.
Best of luck to you, Jammer. All good things come to those who wait and persevere.
Re: New Garage Thread.
Hi Frank and Jammer, I agree Frank on trying to build bigger and trying for discounts by offering cash, it can be amazing how many doors cash opens. If I was building a new shed I would build something simular to these .Could you explain 50 ft lb snowload roof please, I'm assuming that you can have 50 lb of snow per square ft on the roof before it all turns to shit and the lot ends up on your shed floor
Mike
Mike
Last edited by mite5255 on Tue Nov 12, 2013 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
When life gets tough, remember: You were the strongest sperm 
Re: New Garage Thread.
That does look like a nice one, Mite. I got way too much stuff to go that small, though.. LOL. Even 50'x30' is cramped when combining welding, molding, waxing, and sand casting operations... lots of cross contamination going on, especially using air around sand, or grinding on metals doing fabrications. Shit goes everywhere. Pain in the butt to have to tarp off everything else just to do a simple quick job and clean up after. Wax stations need to be clean and free of dusts, dirt, sand grits and metal shavings. Sand box needs protected too. As do molding stations. If you're going to do a lot of this stuff you need to have plenty of elbow room. I also do a lot of wrenching on my motorcycles, 4-wheelers and vehicles. As it is, this 30x40 shop I've settled with on our new house is packed already and I don't even have my foundry tooling or welding station set up yet. Something's gotta go. I'm think'n of let'n one HD go and build'n an outside shed for the 4-wheelers to live. Then get rid of the ROKON two wheel drive mountain bike. That would free up enough room to get my welding and foundry set back up... and give me some floor space to do some fabrication and life sized statuary.
Re: New Garage Thread.
I have checked on a skid steer, they run $700/5day wk or 3 day weekend. I'm in an area that would be difficult to avoid permits, inspections and taxes. The penalties are steep when your caught and you still have to pay the fees and taxes. I'm new to this area and have no friends and it seems to be very difficult to find anyone who wants to do any work for less than $20/hr. I'm not building a foundry, I'm planning a garage and a covered area for my little boat, with enough room to have a couple hobby melts and to work on some Iron and Steel alloys.
I have worked with a contractor and built houses and garages. Now my health keeps me from doing too much at once and I sure don't want a half-built garage setting for a couple years waiting to be finished. If I can find a small crew, I can boss them around and get it built. Winters are pretty light here, only a few slight small snowfalls this year, less than an inch.
One thing this move has taught me is I Have Too Much Stuff. I've reduced and downsized a lot and still have more to go..After all,
The Man Who Dies With the Most Toys.....Is Still Dead!
I have worked with a contractor and built houses and garages. Now my health keeps me from doing too much at once and I sure don't want a half-built garage setting for a couple years waiting to be finished. If I can find a small crew, I can boss them around and get it built. Winters are pretty light here, only a few slight small snowfalls this year, less than an inch.
One thing this move has taught me is I Have Too Much Stuff. I've reduced and downsized a lot and still have more to go..After all,
The Man Who Dies With the Most Toys.....Is Still Dead!
Re: New Garage Thread.
Jerry,
Find some illegal Mexicans. They are everywhere. I don't know how Mexicans got the reputation for being lazy. They are some of the hardest working people I have ever come across. And they can improvise and make stuff out of nothing.
Richard
Find some illegal Mexicans. They are everywhere. I don't know how Mexicans got the reputation for being lazy. They are some of the hardest working people I have ever come across. And they can improvise and make stuff out of nothing.
Richard
Re: New Garage Thread.
But he still wins I hope, even if he's still very much deadJammer wrote:I have checked on a skid steer, they run $700/5day wk or 3 day weekend. I'm in an area that would be difficult to avoid permits, inspections and taxes. The penalties are steep when your caught and you still have to pay the fees and taxes. I'm new to this area and have no friends and it seems to be very difficult to find anyone who wants to do any work for less than $20/hr. I'm not building a foundry, I'm planning a garage and a covered area for my little boat, with enough room to have a couple hobby melts and to work on some Iron and Steel alloys.
I have worked with a contractor and built houses and garages. Now my health keeps me from doing too much at once and I sure don't want a half-built garage setting for a couple years waiting to be finished. If I can find a small crew, I can boss them around and get it built. Winters are pretty light here, only a few slight small snowfalls this year, less than an inch.
One thing this move has taught me is I Have Too Much Stuff. I've reduced and downsized a lot and still have more to go..After all,
The Man Who Dies With the Most Toys.....Is Still Dead!
The roof area on my work area is only 7 mt (22 ft ) x 5 mt (16 ft ) and is packed , maybe if I was a lot neater I may have more room
Mike
When life gets tough, remember: You were the strongest sperm 
Re: New Garage Thread.
The 30x50 shop I built was in the highest taxed county in the USA, also requiring inspections and permitting adnausium. I did things by the book (their book) by first investigating what is considered an outbuilding, pole building, shop, garage, carport, etc. Turned out their "definition" of an OUTBUILING is, [quote]: "A structure, i.e., Shed, Garage, Carport, Farm maintenance building, intended to store equipment, tools, and supplies, allow for a sheltered work area, must be 90' from any property line and 40' from the main residence structure. Electric service for lighting and wall outlets is allowable." The permit for an OUTBUILDING was only 25 bucks. Nowhere in the "definition" did it say anything about limitations to whether a concrete slab was allowed, nor did it "define" or 'STATE" what limitations there were for HEIGHT, WIDTH, or LENGTH. In effect, their own "definition" allowed for anything I wanted to build because it didn't exclude anything I had in mind to do. I paid the permit fee, submitted a scaled "outline" site plan sketch (making sure not to include the written scale on the sheet) which drew attention to verified intended distances where the structure would rest adjacent to property lines. They approved it sight unseen, sent me my permit, I had all my ducks lined up so hit it fast and furious and had it framed, roofed, sided, and sheathed with metal roofing, and a sweet concrete slab before the inspector figured to swing by and see if I might want any advice on whom to get help from in the community. When he saw it he issued me a stop order (too late hahaha). Then he said I broke the law by building a structure that huge and avoiding permit and inspection fees. I showed him the "definition" of their own OUTBUILDING permit and asked him to show me where my structure is out of compliance. He couldn't.... instead, he said it's "IMPLIED" that an outbuilding can't be any bigger than a small 10x12 shed. I told him "IMPLIED" don't hold water in court. He was welcome to visit but his services were not required and I pointed to his truck and my driveway. My next visit was from the tax assessor (expectedly, of course) which I cared less about. They wanted their tax money which I wasn't going to argue and their greed did exactly what I wanted and that was to assess it with as high of value as they could get away with which only raised the value of my property and gave me more equity in my home. WIn/win, in my opinion.
I was new to that community as well, my friend. Took me about 5 months to introduce myself to key personnel in the community I felt knew more about the goings on in teh community and could guide me to "nice" folks that are eager to lend a hand to their fellow man. Some of those contacts were made on Sundays check'n out local churches and visiting purely to chat with the local hardware employees. Also would swing by and bring coffee and doughnuts to BS with the local equipment rental fella in teh county. Do nice things, nice things come your way.
Before long I had parents offer'n their teenage boys to come assist with the crete work when I got ready.
My guess is that your county's definition of an OUTBUILDING is no different than the one I read on the permit I paid for. I've been in land law employment positions, Civil and Survey project oversight positions, title and land status positions, and land title research positions over my life experiences. Trust me... those who write up these money grub'n revenue make'n permits have limited education in real estate law and land law application. They rely upon the ignorance of the public to milk them of their money and will even go so far as to intimedate you if you raised the debate that size is omitted from their permit narative. Don't volunteer ANYTHING you see as a loop hole. Keep yourself focused to stay precisely within the parameter of their word for word definition and work fast to complete your project. Nothing they can do after the fact once they come out and see you totally made a damn fool of their regulations.
If dimensions are not stated in the outbuilding permit then there ARE NO LIMITATIONS on size. It's totally up to whomever's interpretation that's reading and following the guidelines. They will not make you tear it down because no court will grant them that judgement. All they can do is tax it according to Nationally recognized realestate value tax guidelines.
The only thing they did "after" I got what I wanted built, was to tear up all their OUTBUILDING permits and reprint them with size restriction dimension limitations. HAHAHAHA.... and man-o-man there were a bunch of pissed off neighbors all of a sudden who'd been bitch'n for decades that they couldn't have a shop on their property 'cause they couldn't afford all the inspections and permit fees, then saw mine being built not realizing it was off an outbuilding permit and heard by word of mouth what I'd done after the fact. They all raced down to get an outbuilding permit themselves only to find the county had changed their naratives on the forms.
Never allow yourself to feel defeated and herded by money grub'n entities designed to fatten themselves off your goals and dreams. Seriously!!
I was new to that community as well, my friend. Took me about 5 months to introduce myself to key personnel in the community I felt knew more about the goings on in teh community and could guide me to "nice" folks that are eager to lend a hand to their fellow man. Some of those contacts were made on Sundays check'n out local churches and visiting purely to chat with the local hardware employees. Also would swing by and bring coffee and doughnuts to BS with the local equipment rental fella in teh county. Do nice things, nice things come your way.
My guess is that your county's definition of an OUTBUILDING is no different than the one I read on the permit I paid for. I've been in land law employment positions, Civil and Survey project oversight positions, title and land status positions, and land title research positions over my life experiences. Trust me... those who write up these money grub'n revenue make'n permits have limited education in real estate law and land law application. They rely upon the ignorance of the public to milk them of their money and will even go so far as to intimedate you if you raised the debate that size is omitted from their permit narative. Don't volunteer ANYTHING you see as a loop hole. Keep yourself focused to stay precisely within the parameter of their word for word definition and work fast to complete your project. Nothing they can do after the fact once they come out and see you totally made a damn fool of their regulations.
The only thing they did "after" I got what I wanted built, was to tear up all their OUTBUILDING permits and reprint them with size restriction dimension limitations. HAHAHAHA.... and man-o-man there were a bunch of pissed off neighbors all of a sudden who'd been bitch'n for decades that they couldn't have a shop on their property 'cause they couldn't afford all the inspections and permit fees, then saw mine being built not realizing it was off an outbuilding permit and heard by word of mouth what I'd done after the fact. They all raced down to get an outbuilding permit themselves only to find the county had changed their naratives on the forms.
Never allow yourself to feel defeated and herded by money grub'n entities designed to fatten themselves off your goals and dreams. Seriously!!
Re: New Garage Thread.
I'm glad that all worked out for you frank.
This whole project has gone south. I have to submit detailed drawings and have each step of the process inspected. I can't even run the electric myself with permission.
Now Obama just took about 2/3's of the money I had saved for the project so I'll just scrap all my stuff, forget about it and set in the house and watch soap operas.
This whole project has gone south. I have to submit detailed drawings and have each step of the process inspected. I can't even run the electric myself with permission.
Now Obama just took about 2/3's of the money I had saved for the project so I'll just scrap all my stuff, forget about it and set in the house and watch soap operas.
Re: New Garage Thread.
That's one of the many reasons I moved to Mexico, Jerry. No building permits, no inspectors, no rules and regulations. If you are dumb enough down here to build a house that falls on your head, then shame on you. We do have our share of problems, but regulation is thankfully not one of them.
A way your workspace problem may be solved is to make some friends outside of town who own some farm land and have some old outbuildings.
Richard
A way your workspace problem may be solved is to make some friends outside of town who own some farm land and have some old outbuildings.
Richard